Phil(bo) Christiansen, owner of Longwood Wines, is a living
legend in McLaren Vale.
As a born and bred child of the Vale, he remembers the place
being very different indeed before all the investment and wine hype. Phil started work as a trainee cellar hand at
Hardy’s local Tintara winery but it wasn’t until Hardy’s appointed Steve
Pannell as head winemaker back in the 90’s that things would change for him.
Through Pannell’s inspiration and great cellar
communications, Phil learnt how to make wine commercially and how to develop
exciting wines for himself. Philbo was a big part of Tony Laithwaite’s highly
successful RedHeads movement and today he has his own winery nestled high in
the hills above McLaren Vale where he makes his own range of exquisite wines
alongside contract winemaking for other talented growers.
I have known Phil for many years from his frequent visits to
Bordeaux to help with the harvest. I now find myself here in his home town and
working for his mentor Steve Pannell who has returned to this part of the world
to set up his own winery.
Phil in his winery |
Phil and his wife Lauren have kindly put me up at their
place for a few days after the madness of harvest. Now I can get to see a bit
of the Vale before heading off. And I can taste some of Phil’s exciting wines
like his Adelaide Pinot Noir, a superb Cabernet Sauvignon and old-vine
Grenache.
However, first things first in true Australian fashion: “let’s
go and see a mate for a beer”. That ‘mate’ was Philbo’s school mate Drew Noon …
another living legend in the Vale.
Drew is a quiet, interesting and charming character. A
winemaker of great experience, he is also one of the very few in Australia to
pass the Master of Wine and now runs his small Noon Winery just down the road
from Phil’s place. Drew has quite a following and all his wine is sells out
pre-release … he even has a waiting list!
The cellar door opens on only a couple of weekends in November where
wines are available to buy in limited quantities … these usually sell out
within the first Saturday!
Drew and Phil ... living legends of the Vale |
Therefore it was great to have a little look around, meet
Drew personally to chat about his winemaking and how the 2015 went. Drew unscrewed an old-vine Noon Eclipse Grenache
for us to taste which was really lovely and superbly balanced. We also tasted/drank
a bottle of his limited 150 bottle 2014 rose instead of a beer!
Tasting Drew's old-vine Grenache |
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