A Battle of Grenache

One of the reasons I am out here is that South Australia is home to some of the world’s oldest Grenache vines and I wanted to see and learn how they do things out here. I have already seen similarities between Grenache here and at home in Maury but new methods, ideas and techniques can only enhance the perfection in my Grenache wine that I aim for.

I have been working with Stephen Pannell for the last 4 weeks solid, absorbing all his energy, ability and passion for wine. Stephen Pannell is a winemaker of enormous reputation and has worked at the highest level for some of the best wineries, making some of Australia’s most iconic and most expensive wines. Steve is also twice winner and current holder of the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy.

S.C. Pannell Cellar Door

However Steve has returned to the Vale to set up his own winery, driven by his love for certain varietals including his beloved Grenache! 

We had a great night with Steve and co at his S.C. Pannell cellar door and restaurant and were seated out on the ‘deck’ as they say down under!

On the deck

I knew Steve’s love of Grenache so I sneaked in my own 2012 Vent de Folie I had brought in my suitcase from home alongside his highly rated Grenache. 

Two Grenaches

Steve loved the Vent de Folie and it was talk of the winemakers’ table. I am thrilled about this and after many years working with old-vine Grenache it is always a pleasure to have great compliments and enjoyment from one of the most respected winemakers in the world.  Honestly, the Vent de Folie stood up to Steve’s Grenache, shoulder to shoulder. It may not have won hands down, but don’t tell Steve. My Vent de Folie does however win hands down with the price,a complete steal at only £14.99!!

It's off to work I go

I awoke early on my first morning in Australia with car, boat, train, coach, jet and taxi lag. Yet soon found myself driving my allocated ute, following young Canadian assistant winemaker Matt to the Tinlins winery.

My ute

The Tinlins cellar is located in the heart McLaren Vale and is a fairly big winery compared to most in the region. Tinlins specialise in producing high-quality premium wines that are bought by other wineries such as Hardy’s and Penfolds to make some of their well-known wines.

It’s pretty busy already and I am straight into the fermentation cellar with pump-overs in full swing on the first shiraz to come in.

Shiraz pump-over

Sampling the vineyards is the most important part of a winemaker’s job in order to pick the fruit at the perfect ripeness so it was out to the Adelaide Hills, this afternoon.  The vineyards are picked later here due to the 500m altitude. Some really interesting varietals are planted here with vineyard blocks of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.  Walking the rows and tasting the fruit shows us that these must wait, giving us time to pick the warmer vineyards down in the warmer valley floor of McLaren Vale. 

Sampling in the vineyards

Trains, Planes, Automobiles and a couple of Ferries!

My first view Down Under

Once again it’s that time of year when I swap my European ‘driving winemaker’ job to become once more a ‘flying winemaker’ for a couple of months.  This year’s call has come from the legendary Australian Warren Randall, winemaker and owner of the famous Seppeltsfield Estate (amongst others) in the Barossa. 

I met Warren last summer when he visited the Laithwaite Vineyard estates and Le Chai Au Quai in Bordeaux. We had a good chat during a couple of days of tasting a wide variety of wine styles and, of course, my love and passion for Grenache became evident rather quickly! It just so happens that Warren also owns the oldest Grenache vineyards in Australia, at McLaren Vale’s Tinlins winery. Here, one of the world’s most respected winemakers (and current holder of the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy) Stephen Pannell is at the winemaking helm.  Stephen’s another Grenache freak and I’m looking forward to be working under him for the 2015 harvest!

A couple of days ago I was in a very soggy, cold Bordeaux. But with much of Australia enduring another searing heat-wave summer, the harvest is early and I now find myself heading to Adelaide to work directly for Warren and Steve!

However it seems it’s never a simple task to get from A to B. Or in this case B(ordeaux) to A(ustralia)!  

Time was already tight and I needed to get my UK registered car back to the UK before the 16^th of February for its MOT. I also had the small task of renewing my passport in my home country of Jersey. Although I am classed as a British citizen, I was actually born non UK or EU so I have to visit home personally to sign the documents to get a passport.  

And so the journey began. Drove the length of France, took ferry to Portsmouth, drove to Dorset, dropped car off, took small ferry (very rough to Jersey), got passport, ferry back to UK, train to Southampton, National Express (without the jolly hostess) to London Heathrow, flight to Hong Kong then Hong Kong to Adelaide and finally a taxi from Adelaide airport to Port Willunga.

It was hot and I think the sea was very blue …